African Nights; A Lively Lullaby

The first few nights I slept in Africa I couldn’t sleep because of the noisy animal symphony outside my window. But now that I have been here a month, this lively lullaby is as comforting as the tick tocks on a Grandfather clock.

I can wake up in the middle of the night and know based on the noises outside exactly what time it is.

10pm-12am Our neighbor boy wails, Frogs croak, and storks squalk.
12am-2am Either stray dogs compete in a barking match or there is a thunderous rain storm.
2am-4am The sound of silence, finally everything is asleep.
4am-6am The nearby Mosque’s call to prayer. Dozens of roosters “cockadoodledoing” you from the depths of your dreams.
6am-7pm A boarding school’s obnoxious bell rings their students up from their slumber. Oh, sounds like the neighbor boy is awake again.
7am and On The animals are back at it again, and if you’re not up and at’em, Africa is starting another day without you.

I read this passage in a book that perfectly captures a night’s sleep in Africa.
“The night creatures saw and hum with such persistence that the human brain is forced to translate the song into pulse. Night apes, owls, nightjars, jackals, hyenas; these animals have the woo-ooping, sweeping, land-traveling calls that add an eerie mystery to the night. Frogs throb, impossibly loud for such small bodies. There is only one time of absolute silence. Halfway between the dark of night and the light of morning, all animals and crickets and birds fall into a profound silence as if pressed quiet by the deep quality of the blackest time of night. This silence is how I know it is not yet dawn, not is it the middle of the night, but it is the place of no-time, when all things sleep most deeply, where their guard is dosing, and when robbers (who know this fact) are most likely to attack.”

-“Don’t Let’s Go to the Dogs Tonight” By Alexander Fuller

The Wilson Aunties of Uganda

There are many influential women in my life; my Grandma Renner, my best friends, spiritual and career mentors, my aunts Jean and Anne, my pseudo-mom Suzie B., and my sister-in-law Lauren. I am blessed to be surrounded by so many strong, compassionate God-fearing women. But there is one group of 7 women who have acted as Mother Geese since I was just a chick. The Wilson women. Big lips, big booties, loud voices and even larger than life personalities.
These days I am surrounded by 90 women on a daily basis. Women who have been raised in villages in a third world country. Women who have never heard of Oprah, Dr. Phil, or gone out to coffee just to “catch-up.” These women on the surface wouldn’t have anything in common with the women I run with. Yet as their stories unfold and their personalities come to light, I realize a day spent with Suubi women is like a day spent with my Wilson aunties. (And it’s not just because most of these Suubi women also have big lips, big booties, loud voices and personalities to match.)
Here I highlight the 7 Wilson women and the Suubi women I believe to be their African counter-part:

Mother Hen Grandma Ruth as Prisca
Grandma Ruth raised 9 kiddos on a meager income. She pinched, she scrounged, and she stretched each meal to feed 11 hungry mouths. Grandma Ruth is the matriarch of the rowdy Wilson crew. I found her match in Prisca. Prisca is one of the founding members of Suubi. From day one she has been loyal to the organization and has taken on a leadership role. Prisca is currently raising 10 kids, some of her own and some of her grandchildren.

Eldest Daughter Lorinda as Grace
Auntie Lori lets me be her little helper. I get to be her side-kick when hosting parties, wrapping presents, or power washing the garage. Miss Grace is her kindred-spirit. I spent a day with Grace and noticed like Lorinda, Grace can also roll up her sleeves for a hard day’s work. She let me cook next to her, clean dishes with her, and varnish beads together. She and Lorinda together could make a very efficient duo around the house or in the boardroom.

My mom Shelley: Janet
I know my mom will be offended by this choice for her based on the picture, because Janet has some masculine features and my mom always says she looks more like a Wilson boy than a Wilson girl….but that is not why I paired them together. Janet and my mom both have entrepreneurial spirits. My mom started a business from her basement 15 years ago and today it has grown and is still running strong. Janet has taken advantage of any opportunity she can to run a business out of her home. She manages the town’s water supply and collects payment from neighbors. And because Janet has easy access to water and millet (a corn staple), Janet brews her own beer and sells it to neighbors. Janet rents a TV when there’s a good futbol match on, and operates a makeshift town saloon right out of her shed. Both Janet and my mom are inspirations of ingenuity and perseverance.

Auntie Brab (I mean Barb) as Jaznita
Jaznita was the first Suubi woman I met, and you may remember from an earlier blog entry that she cooked up a chicken for us for lunch. Auntie Brab let me spend countless hours at her house as a little girl. She is a hostest with the mostest. (It must be a Wilson women thing) She throws party like it’s her job, and redecorates her home to mirror the latest Home and Garden magazine. Auntie Barb dresses to the nines, and Jaznita is known as the most fashionable Suubi woman.

Auntie Kim as Anetti Aunt Kim and Anetti are twins separated from the Atlantic. They are both daring in their fashion sense (Kimmy loves leopard and just look at what Anetti is wearing!) Anetti’s husband has a co-wife that she is very jealous of, just as Aunt Kimmy has to share her main squeeze Uncle Mike with the golf course!

Auntie Dede (Dianne) as Lillian
Lillian has the nickname as Pastor Lillian around Suubi. She is always praising Jesus for all the blessings in her life and can turn her amazing life story into more of a preaching opportunity. My aunt Dianne has always been very willing to share her faith life with anyone she meets. She speaks openly about how the Lord is involved in her life. Lillian is 7 months pregnant…Dianne is NOT.

Auntie Amy as Florence
I have met Amy’s match in Florence. Both women are self-educated. Aunt Amy has always taken a liking to learning as much as possible and teaching others she knows. Just name a classic novel and Amy will be your live version of Cliff’s Notes. This Suubi woman Florence is our star pupil in English class. She sits in the back of class, and can answer every question right. Sometimes we have to say,” Anyone but Florence?”

In the Ugandan culture a term of respect for a woman is to call her Auntie. So when these women call me Auntie Kate, I laugh because for the next 2 months I get to be a part of the cool “Auntie clan,” I’ve always loved so dearly.

Uganda's Life Expectancy: Where's the Gray Hair?

In 2006 the average Ugandan’s life expectancy was set at 39 years. Today it is at 51. While that number shows great strides in health improvements over the last 3 years, the reality of living in a population where the average age is 15 is very different from living in a population where 40 is an acceptable time to have a “MID-life crisis.”
Last night I met an old man with white course hair, and even white hair growing out of his ears. It alarmed me because white hair is a very uncommon trait here in Uganda. It’s not because of the prevalence of hair dye or that Ugandan’s are blessed with good genes, it’s because old age is uncommon to reach.
Most women don’t even reach the age of menopause, and because of that the luxury of waiting to get married and have children late in life isn’t even an option. The biological clock is ticking much louder here, and in a more mortal way.
The diseases American’s worry about; i.e. cancer and heart disease, are not ailments Ugandans fear. Malaria is the most talked about illness although as all travelers know, it is highly preventable. Even though HIV/AIDS numbers have drastically dropped in recent years, 5 % of the population still lives with the virus. I interviewed Gertrude, a Suubi woman, yesterday who lives in fear of leaving her 6 children as orphans, victims of her HIV. Every day she tries to muster up enough strength to provide for them even though the virus is slowly attacks her immune system. SOME Americans have the burden of being the ones to blame for some of our diseases based on poor lifestyle choices. (Let me emphasize, SOME Americans, as we all know many diseases are hereditary). The number one disease causing death in America is Heart Disease, which is often linked with eating habits we have the luxury to choose. Most Ugandans don’t even know what cancer is, something else usually takes their life before they are old enough to receive such a diagnosis,
Uganda’s Social Security crisis? It doesn’t exist. The concept of a 401K or planning for retirement is a waste of time. If the average life span is around 50, most Ugandan’s work until death do them part. Main Street’s sidewalks don’t need to be wheelchair accessible. Nursing Homes don’t need to be built. And age-defying products don’t need to line the store shelves.
Because Uganda’s life expectancy is 27 years less than that of Americas; every phase of life here is also cut short. Infancy ends by the age of 1, when toddlers are expected to be potty trained and walking so their moms can get back to work. Childhood ends at 9, because another set of hands is more helpful than another mouth to feed. Marriages start as early as 16, especially in the poorer, uneducated villages. This means by the American way of thinking, Uganda’s kids are raising their own kids.
This is just the way it is. There are no other options when death steals the last 30 years that most Americans feel entitled to. There’s no planning for a retirement on the golf course or a senior’s travelling excursion. Even hot flashes and the aches and pains of growing older would be considered a blessing here. With a life expectancy at 40, life’s paradigm dramatically shifts.

See Muzungu (fill in the blank)

(One of these people is not like the others)

I don’t know if you remember the childhood classic “See Spot Run,” well I am starting to feel like that spotted dog who taught every child how to read. Because of my white skin I am quite a spectacle for anyone and everyone who sees me. They point, they laugh, they mock, especially the school children. My daily activities have become the makings of a new childhood book, “See Muzungu (Fill in the Blank).”

See Muzungu Wash Dishes-I visited a Suubi woman yesterday, and after we ate lunch I offered to help with her dishes. Since most guests do not do their own dishes, a crowd of neighbors gathered round to see me scrub the ins and outs of our plate wear.

(Come one, come all, see "The dishwashing Muzungu")

See Muzungu Carry A Jackfruit-I was walking back from the market with a jackfruit (a delicious local fruit) around the time the school kids were getting let out of school. I may not know their language, but I can tell mocking in any culture. Shouts of “Muzungu, Jackfruit” followed by snickering and pantomiming, made that pretty clear.

See Muzungu Dance-If there is ever a beat on the radio, I can’t help but shake my shoulders a little bit. Now anytime a Ugandan sees me shimmy a little to the left or right, they make me stand up and dance. “Muzungu Dance!”

See Muzungu Sit Like a Monkey in a zoo-A favorite activity they love watching me do, is a non-activity, just sitting on their front porches. I think this way the neighborhood kids can gawk all they want without any distractions. The bold kids will pet the hair on my arm (since Ugandans don’t have any hair on their extremities). The shyer kids will actually burst out crying because my smile is so terrifying.

Now I know how the animals feel in a zoo.

No Need to Be Alarmed

Yesterday and all this weekend, the capitol city of Kampala is under violent riots. So far 10 protestors have been killed, and dozens have been injured and arrested. The U.S. Embassy sent an email to any U.S. citizens in Uganda, advising us not to travel to the capitol. I am currently in Jinja, which is at least 2 hours away from Kampala, so we are safe. But Betty, our house girl was in Kampala yesterday with her 1 year-old son, and said it was very scary. She couldn’t get out of the city because the roads were blocked. She says tires were lit on fire by the side of the road, police were using tear gas to break up rioters and she and Kymbi got the fumes in their eyes, plus Kymbi was screaming at the sound of gunshots in the air. It turns out even though Uganda has a fairly stable central government; there are still tribal disputes because “cultural tribes” still have political leaders and agendas. Just because the British left Uganda with their final word as to the boundaries of kingdoms, many groups still argue over land and power.
We are a little worried because we have to pick up new volunteers on Monday south of Kampala. That would be a very scary sight for a college student fresh off the plane to be confronted by. The U.S. Embassy expects the violence to last only for the weekend, but you never know with emotions running high, and revenge on the mind, how long this could last.

The Real World: Uganda

Happy 30th Anniversary Mom and Dad! This blog entry has nothing to do with that, but I first wanted to commemorate this momentous anniversary, and let them know that I love them and am so proud of their lasting marriage.

The community I am living with is such an inspiration to be around. Living in this house for the next 3 months might just be “boot camp for being a really awesome person.” So far there are 5 of us, but it will be rotating about every 2-3 weeks with new people. Just call it the Real World: Uganda, minus the raunchy rendezvous.
Randy and Rachel Stroud live here as staff members, and have set the welcoming tone for our house (and no, we do not live in a hut, it’s actually very luxurious with electricity and running water). They have so much wisdom about LGH and compassion for the women of Suubi. And because this non-profit is only 2 years old, both R & R are continually brainstorming ways we can improve the operation and meet more of the needs of these women. I’ll be spending the whole 3 months with this lovely Montrose couple. Plus they’re super good at living room badminton.
Heather will be leaving us in just one week, but she has been transformed into an Acholi women. She has learned the tribal language so well. Heather is here on an environmental studies internship. She is doing research on how the conflict in the North has affected the agricultural practices of the Acholi women. Acholi-land in Northern Uganda, used to be so fertile it was called “The breadbasket of Eastern Africa.” But after being untouched for 20 years, most of the land has overgrown into the bush. But she’s learned that it’s not just the land that suffers. These women used to be able to grow all the food they needed to survive. Now they have to buy their food in the market and it is much more expensive, much less accessible, and since they’ve lost their ancestral farming skills, they have to learn a new way to provide for their families. I’m grateful that Heather has so willingly given me advice before she jets off.
(Randy-L, Ryan-R, Suubi Women-Way R) (Rachel-L, Heather-R)

Ryan is just visiting for a couple weeks. He is on the board for LGH, and has the special privilege of being introduced to the women as “Dave’s best friend” which usually leads to a round of applause. It’s pretty cool that Ryan and Dave Hansow knew each other as teens pumping some iron at Grand Junction Athletic Club, and now they are heading up (along with Morgan of course J) this brave venture. I applaud Ryan because he came over here to gain a better perspective of the Uganda side of things for making decisions back in the States.
But that’s not all; we live with 4 amazing Ugandans! Betty is the House Girl who brings such joy to the house. She is always laughing at us “Aunties and Uncles.” She is an incredibly smart woman who is raising her son, Kimbi, as a single mother while keeping this full time job and going to school. Her 13-year-old cousin Sharon joined the house this year. Sharon’s laugh can be heard all across the yard. She is such a strong kind little women. George guards the house at night. He truly breaks the mold of the traditional Ugandan man. George rides his bike 8 miles to work every day, and comes early and stays late. George isn’t armed he just carries a dull machete, but it’s nice to know another set of eyes are keeping watch over us.
This Real World group may not be full of scandalous entertainment, or dramatic chat-fights; but it is sure to uplifting, and a lot more “real” that what MTV can portray.



(Me at my First Suubi Meeting)

A Tale of Two Africas

Kopengo from Jinja, Uganda!
I made it here safely, without any hitches, which is incredible knowing now all the travel issues some of the other volunteers have encountered. It took a total of 40 hours for me to get from suburban house in Turtle Lake, MN to a gated African mansion (basically) near Lake Victoria.

My first day in Uganda was spent behind the glass windows of a taxi bus. We drove from Entebbe (the airport) through Kampala (the capitol) to Jinja (home for 3 months). At every blink of the eye I saw a new sight that was more and more “African” (I use that term tongue in cheek as an adjective). On Thursday I thought I was experiencing "Africa"… Lush green rainforest lining the road, lots of action; goats, cows, chickens running wild, scooters, taxis, and bike balancing heavy leads swerving in and out of traffic. I was a tourist to the extreme; eating at a Ugandan bistro, sipping my iced coffee, and eating my delicious chicken burrito (can anyone say globalization?)

My second day was a complete paradigm shift. The Africa I saw through the taxi windows was the same Africa I see on the Travel Channel, and those crazy ethnic food shows. Friday’s Africa was uncomfortable to say the least. It started with a 1 hour walk up to the villages, where I met my first group of Suubi women. The women were unbelievably welcoming and joyous, but their rudimentary English skills make for difficult conversations. Me and two other members of LGH (Heather and Rachel) spent 5 hours in a dark crowded hut (remember no electricity). Women, kids, chickens, strangers all kept coming in to meet the “Muzungus” (White people) But it was a challenge to get past “Hi, How are you?” I started getting claustrophobic in this hut visit. But amazing Jaznita, a 21-year-old, mother of 2 from the border of Uganda and the Congo, made us lunch. She had her brother kill, pluck, and skin a chicken in the back alley, and boiled every last part of the animal. The real irony came when I was eating the meal and a chicken strolled into the hut (probably his cousin!)

All this to say (not complain), this is the real Africa, not the touristy pleasant drive on paved roads around the coast of the Nile. And I’m glad. A true culture shock cannot take place in air conditioning with cushy seats and perfect communication. Bring on the misunderstandings, bring on the sweat and mosquitoes, and bring on the meaningful exchange of ideas and respect from one side of the world to another.

6 Hours and Counting...

As I pack my snacks for the next 48 full hours of traveling, I can't help but think back to all it's taken to get this dream to become a reality: Immunization shots, Malaria pills, convincing my folks I wasn't nuts, camera equipment malfunctions, more equipment malfunctions, dying my hair darker, selling necklaces out of the trunk of my car, reading up on the region, and an unbelievable out-pouring of support and prayers. I am so blessed that most of my friends and family went from the reaction of "You're going where?" to now pushing sales for these Light Gives Heat necklaces on all their friends, family, and co-workers.
I think the important part to remember about the organization is that it's a two-part mission. Half of the goal is to help empower these Ugandan women to provide for themselves and their families. Because a consistent income can make a world of difference for their children's education, their families' well-being, and health-care. But the flip-side of the coin is that Light Gives Heat tries to heighten the awareness of Americans who often times lose sight of how the majority of the world lives. And the unbelievable truth is that in the face of all their struggles, poverty, and history of violence in the country, these women probably have a better, wiser, more hopeful outlook on life and what matters.
I hope to act as a liaison (as well as a videographer, a volunteer, and a friend) between the two polar cultures. Helping these 120 women to meet their basic needs, while helping to bring the joy and strength they possess to those of us who have our basic needs met, but are missing out on a hopeful perspective.